The Covid Diaries 96 – Apsley House, London

A visit to Apsley House, the London home of the First Duke of Wellington. Who knew so much of the Spanish royal art collection was right there at the edge of Hyde Park?

Tell Me About Apsley House

Well, where to start? Apsley House is a grand Georgian building, famously home to the Duke of Wellington, Arthur Wellesley. Yes, the one famous for defeating Napoleon at Waterloo. In fact Apsley House is somewhat earlier, built for Henry Bathurst, Baron Apsley (makes sense), before being bought by Richard Wellesley, brother to Arthur. Arthur ended up having to buy it to save a scandal when Richard ended up divorced and bankrupt. Originally a Robert Adam house, Wellesley commissioned Benjamin Wyatt to expand the house at great cost (it’s not just today’s Prime Ministers who undertake costly renovations).

The First Duke of Wellington died in 1852. Already in 1853 the Second Duke of Wellington opened a museum room at Apsley House to display some of his father’s treasures to the public. This sort of arrangement continued until 1943, when the Seventh Duke bequeathed the house and a lot of the art collection to the nation. The whole of Apsley House opened to the public in 1952, a century after Wellington’s death. Since 2004, English Heritage has been in charge.

This was my first visit to Apsley House. I generally have little interest in military history, but I do quite like a stately home now and then, especially one which is so easy to get to. I hadn’t expected them to have a ‘no photos’ rule, however, so you will have to use your imaginations as I describe my visit. All in all I found it a pleasant way to spend an hour or so. It can easily be combined with a visit to the Serpentine Galleries next door in Hyde Park.

What Was Wellington Famous For Again?

The title of this section is a very funny joke on my part. There is no forgetting what the Duke of Wellington’s most famous achievement was. And just in case you happened to forget, the 3.45m tall Canova statue of a naked Napoleon at the foot of the staircase is a good reminder. Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, was of course the hero of the Battle of Waterloo, a victory which ended the Napoleonic Wars. He was also twice Prime Minister.

But it is the Napoleonic period which dominates Apsley. There are several good portraits by Sir Thomas Lawrence and other artists of notable military figures of the period. The dining room is ringed by portraits of the contemporary heads of European states. There is a Waterloo Gallery hung with paintings ‘captured’ from the Spanish royal collection. And many pictures of Napoleon in addition to the colossal statue.

I found myself wondering whether this is retrospective or whether this was also the decoration scheme at the time. Surely you don’t really want to see a big naked statue of your main enemy every time you go downstairs? But then I remembered the exhibition I saw last year at the Queen’s Gallery of works collected by George IV. It was exactly the same – paintings of Napoleonic heroes, battlefield momentoes… And George IV never set foot anywhere near Waterloo (or even left the country). So I think it was one of those historic events that was just so large that those involved continued to live and breathe it throughout their lives.

A Wonderful Art Collection

What interested me a lot more than the Napoleonic-era heroism or even the architecture (I don’t know a lot about Adam and even less about Wyatt) was the art. There are three main groupings of artworks at Apsley House. Firstly there is the so-called ‘Spanish gift’ of works formerly in the Spanish royal collection. Then there are the Old Master paintings collected by Wellington himself. And lastly the commissions from artists of the period. There are highlights amongst all three, and the free audioguide gives an option of an ‘art lovers’ tour to learn more.

I had no idea that some choice works formerly in the Spanish royal collection were hanging right here in London rather than the Prado. The reason that they are called the ‘Spanish gift’ is part of their complex history. They were looted by Joseph Bonaparte, who abandoned them on a battlefield as they were too much to run off with. Wellington rescued them, sent them back to England, and then enquired of King Ferdinand VII whether he wanted them back. The King magnanimously declined, and thus they have stayed in London ever since. There are 82 of them on display today, including wonderful works by Velázquez, Titian, Rubens and Brueghel. The manageable size of the collection makes it all the more compelling as it is small enough to really appreciate the quality of the works and skill of the artists.

The ‘art lovers’ audio guide also gives interesting information on the Old Masters and newer works purchased by Wellington. There is a nice work by Nicolaes Maes which I saw last year on display in a National Gallery exhibition. Other works show more of a 19th Century sentimentalism, like those of the Greenwich or Chelsea Pensioners. Wellington shows his colours here as a military man through and through, commissioning paintings of retired soldiers.

Final Thoughts

You don’t need to be particularly interested in military history or the Napoleonic period to enjoy Apsley House. In fact its art collection stands up against other stately homes I have travelled a lot further to see. The home that formerly had the address ‘Number 1 London’ takes you back to an earlier period in the city’s history. It’s not how most Londoners lived, to be sure, but is reminiscent of a time when society’s heroes were forged through turbulent times and big deeds.

For me it was somewhat unexpected. I think I may enjoy going back in future to take a second look at the art. Particularly as the Prado remains hard to get to under current circumstances. I plan to seek out other English Heritage sites as well in the coming months, to see what other hidden gems London has to offer.

On its own merits: 3/5
Implementing Covid measures: 4/5

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