Pönksafn Íslands (Icelandic Punk Museum), Reykjavik

What’s more punk than posting about a punk museum on Christmas Day? A punk museum in a disused public toilet in the centre of Reykjavik. Read on to find out what it’s all about.

A Punk Museum

What I know about punks and punk music in Iceland could be written on the back of… a badge on someone’s denim jacket.  Or at least, what I knew about punks and punk music in Iceland before visiting this museum.  I find museums quite a safe way to access untried and untested things.  Would I wander into a punk bar in Iceland?  No, probably not (although I’m sure it would be a lot of fun).  But is there less of a barrier for me to enter a museum all about punks?  Yes, for sure.

Like the Saga Museum, the Icelandic Punk Museum is another one that I was aware of but not entirely sure I would visit whilst in Reykjavik.  Just like fate (or rain) took me into the Saga Museum, however, fate also led me to the Punk Museum.  This time in the form of a tasty cinnamon bun.  Just above the museum is a tempting bakery, Baka Baka.  While I sat with my pastry (and Christmas beer of course) I pondered what to do next.  And decided on the Icelandic Punk Museum.

The premises are certainly punk.  The museum is housed in a disused men’s public toilet.  I say disused rather than former, because the toilets and urinals are all still there.  In fact you have to go right into the stalls and close the doors if you want to see all the texts.  So slightly tipsy and full of Christmas cheer (the best way to visit a museum) I headed down the stairs to see what a punk museum was like.

Balancing Anarchy And Museum Etiquette

Something that was clear from the outset is how hard it is to have a museum that’s truly in the punk spirit, while not having the place trashed.  There are signs periodically imploring visitors to respect the museum space and not put stickers or graffiti on the walls.  A difficult tightrope of embracing the anti-establishment while running an establishment.

The way the museum is set up doesn’t make this any easier.  The vast majority of the display is in the format of paper texts glued to the walls, edges ripped.  They are all presented in Icelandic and English, and include a chronology of punk music in Iceland as well as information on musical movements and the social climate.  So if the texts are defaced, removed or covered, no more museum!

There are creative outlets.  I doubt anyone would make a fuss if you added your mark to the stairs or entranceway.  And there is a spot to play some music as well, if you want to get it out of your system.  But interesting messaging to visitors nonetheless, particularly the ones who identify as punks themselves rather than casual tourists or museum aficionados such as myself.

Icelandic Punks

So what did I learn in the museum, then?  Well first of all the introduction to Icelandic history from a punk perspective was hilarious.  My favourite quote? 

“Because of idiot Hitler’s small penis the British occupied Iceland in 1940.  Later the Yanks came and wanted to save us.  Foreign troops couldn’t be bothered with some Icelandic wool sweater bullshit, but craved foreign pop and jazz.  Icelandic musicmen hit the jackpot: records, music and concerts at the armed forces.  Still no punk.”

Icelandic Punk Museum exhibition as seen in November 2022

It was interesting to learn more about how modern Icelandic history created a fertile space for punk to flourish.  Even things as contrary as banning beer (which obviously pushed more people to unofficial routes to enjoy themselves involving harder substances).  I also learned a lot more about Björk which you all probably knew but I didn’t.  What on earth was she doing putting out albums at 12 and being a lead singer in a band at 14?!

The text-heavy exhibition is supplemented with some objects (like jackets) as well as a couple of videos.  In the last section (near the drum kit) headphones are dangling, each playing a different piece of music.  Hearing some of the bands and artists you’ve been reading about is a nice way to finish and make it more interactive.

Final Thoughts On The Icelandic Punk Museum

I’m glad I visited this one.  I’m also glad I went while a bit tipsy, because it was fun.  I was almost the only visitor when I was there, so could take my time reading the texts, watching the videos and listening to the music.

As we have discussed already, Reykjavik has a lot of museums.  You can take your pick, including the more unusual ones like this one or the nearby Icelandic Phallological Museum (Penis Museum).  But a key thing I want to get across to you here is that you don’t have to be a punk or listen to punk museum to enjoy the Icelandic Punk Museum.  It’s refreshingly different, but also quite a solid exhibition which imparts a lot about Iceland’s recent history and culture.  There’s a lot I wouldn’t have understood about people, music and life in Reykjavik without it.

The actual museum is small (again, it’s a disused public toilet) so you don’t need long if pressed for time.  You don’t even need to pay extra for a yawning punk to disinterestedly take your entrance fee!  An all-round excellent experience.

Salterton Arts Review’s rating: 4/5