Museum Tours

The Lost Gypsy Gallery, Papatowai

A roadside stop in the Catlins town of Papatowai, the Lost Gypsy Gallery is an exercise in creative freedom and experimentation.

The Lost Gypsy Gallery

On my recent trip to the Catlins in New Zealand’s South Island, one place came highly recommended. Sure, there are waterfalls, walks, beaches and all that, but have you heard of the Lost Gypsy Gallery? The work of artist Blair Somerville, the Lost Gypsy Gallery can be found in the small coastal town of Papatowai. In it, you can explore Somerville’s automatons: artworks with buttons and handles to create movement. It sounds a simple concept and it is. Somerville’s artworks take found objects and natural materials and make something new out of them. It’s a style of artwork that requires an immensely creative brain. A great sense of humour, too, as many of the automatons are strikingly clever or funny.

If you’re still not sure, Somerville even lets you try before you buy, so to speak. He no longer sells his artworks, so the Lost Gypsy Gallery is the best way to experience them. When you arrive, the landscape is immediately full of found objects, often in unexpected juxtapositions. You head to a 1951 house bus first, packed to the gunnels with small automatons. If after exploring this rich environment your interest is piqued, you can buy a ticket to the Winding Thoughts Theatre up the hill. Here you will find Somerville’s most complex and impressive works. And don’t forget to stop for a coffee (and probably some home baking, treat yourself) at the on site cafe. It’s popular with locals and a good spot for a chat.


An Exercise In Artistic Freedom

Reading about Somerville’s journey on the Lost Gypsy Gallery website, what struck me was a sense of an expanding need for freedom, peace and tranquility. Born near Wellington, Somerville spent time in the Catlins on family holidays as a child. As an adult he embarked on an artistic and nomadic lifestyle, living in a house truck and selling hand-fired ceramics at local markets. After several years of this and looking for a more permanent base, he was drawn to Papatowai.

Somerville’s more settled life in the Catlins seems to have been a first catalyst towards the art we see today. He began to create automatons (the plural can be automatons or automata but I’m sticking with the former), inspired by an encounter with a gurgling seashell. Finding it hard to keep up with demand for these tactile, clever and immensely satisfying works, the next phase in Somerville’s quest for artistic freedom was to move away from selling his automatons and towards a model where his work stays put, and visitors pay to see it.

As well as allowing Somerville to explore his artistic inclinations to their fullest, this model means that he engages with his audience on his own terms. No children up in the Winding Thoughts Theatre, for instance, although families can still explore the works on the bus. That the fates brought Sandra van der Sommen into Somerville’s life seems almost too perfect: as well as her undoubtedly wonderful personal qualities as a partner and muse, van der Sommen’s commercial art world experience is subtly apparent in the gallery and its website. It’s an immersive artistic environment that Somerville has taken time to carve out for himself, and is well worth your time to visit.


Final Thoughts On The Lost Gypsy Gallery

We have established that the Lost Gypsy Gallery is worth a visit. Ensuring that you can do so will take a bit of planning. First of all, the gallery is seasonal so you’re going to need to be in the Catlins at the right time of year (late October to late April). Check ahead on the website to be sure. It’s also closed on Wednesdays.

Once you reach Papatowai there’s no missing the Lost Gypsy Gallery. It’s right on the Southern Scenic Route and visible from the road. If there are no parks out front don’t be discouraged, Papatowai is otherwise quiet so you should be able to find something close by. Just be careful crossing the main road. And I’ve already encouraged a stop in the Little Rocket cafe on site. The scones were newly baked when we were there, and come highly recommended.

No matter what your purpose in the Catlins is, a visit to the Lost Gypsy Gallery will be unlike anything else you do. I admire Somerville’s brand of creativity immensely. I can only wish for the ability to pick up an object and see so much potential. The interactive nature of the artworks is a delight, and you will find yourself calling your friends or relations over to see each new discovery. Set aside 45 minutes to an hour for the full experience.

Salterton Arts Review’s rating: 4/5




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