Long-time London resident and avid museum and theatre-goer. I started this blog in 2014, and got serious about it in 2020 when I realised how much I missed arts and culture during lockdowns. I go to a lot more events than anyone would think is sensible, and love sharing my thoughts in the forms of reviews, the occasional thought piece, and travel recommendations when I leave my London HQ.
24 Hours In Lyon Without A Plan: A Culture Lover’s Guide
14 mins
A guide to 24 hours in Lyon, in which I do no pre-planning and see what there is to see and do on a sunny summer’s day in Lyon.
24 Hours In Lyon
Do you remember when I spent 24 hours in Dresden, did many more activities than is advisable on a single day, and then told you all about it? Well this is basically the opposite of that. I visited Dresden on a cold and rainy April day, and ended up doing basically all the things I’d read about in advance. It was enjoyable but exhausting. When an old friend who was travelling through Europe invited me to join him for a jaunt to Lyon, I was delighted. There was no way I would try to subject him to my over-enthusiastic solo travelling style, however. And it wasn’t the point, anyway: this trip was about catching up and reconnecting.
It was the first trip to Lyon for both of us, so also a chance to explore. For real culture lovers such as myself (and hopefully you), you don’t have to visit all the museums in order to start to understand a place. Even if, like me on this occasion, you don’t have time to do any pre-reading, so many cities wear their hearts and histories on their sleeves. You can get a good sense of them by wandering the streets and looking at monuments, architectural styles, food, and how people live in the city.
So today’s walk through Lyon is done in the style of a flâneur. Join me for a wander around Lyon as we discover a little of the history and culture of this storied city.
Arrival In Lyon: Croix Rousse To Parc de la Tête d’Or
After arriving in Lyon late morning, we met for lunch at a bistro near the Airbnb my friend had booked. I didn’t take a picture of my delicious salade lyonnaise, or the bistro, that’s how far from my usual organised self I was on this trip. But I can vouch for both: check out Bistrot Jutard. After lunch and dropping off bags we had to decide what to do with ourselves. We selected the Parc de la Tête d’Or (Park of the Golden Head), not too far from us and enticing for a stroll on a hot summer’s day. And so we headed off down the steep slopes from Croix Rousse, formerly its own village of silk weavers (known locally as canuts). On the way to the park and after a steep descent we cross one of Lyon’s rivers for the first time. Lyon is at the confluence of two sizeable rivers, the Rhône and the Saône. The Rhône (which we’re crossing now) you’ve likely heard of, the Saône starts in the Vosges mountains and ends here. Both the Croix Rousse district and Lyon’s Old Town are nestled between the two.And here we are at our first destination: the Parc de la Tête d’Or. The name actually pre-dates this being a public park: something about being able to find Christ’s buried head here back when it was a floodplain belonging to the Lambert family. The public park opened in 1857 and included a botanic garden.Having not read up about the park, we didn’t expect it to be so immense: 117 hectares. We didn’t even find the botanic garden, which today spreads over seven of those hectares. We instead wandered around a bit, exploring shaded alleys and points of interest like this monument to human rights.
A Zoo And A Riverside Walk
And guess what? We found a zoo! Not just that, a free zoo!We saw animals including monkeys and primates, this cute red panda, flamingoes, and this bold pelican.There were signs this zoo was not a modern invention, mainly the historic buildings. In fact there have been animals here since the 1860s. The originals were of the farmyard type, but antelopes, bears and wolves quickly joined their ranks.The African Plain exhibit is the newest, dating to 2006. African animals have been here a lot longer, but in less striking housing. The giraffes and their little friend (maybe an ankole watusi?) were sticking to the shade. Very wise.By this point we were in need of a rest and a cold beverage, so headed back towards the entrance. But for visitors to Lyon, I highly recommend the Parc de la Tête d’Or. It’s a very pleasant place to spend a few hours, with a real sense of history. Not often you find a free zoo, either!It was a while before we sat down for that rest and drink, but the walk was very pleasant. Lyon seems to have a good standard of public amenities, including the park we just visited and also riverside walking paths. Here we are crossing over the Rhône towards the town centre.We stopped for a drink (or two) behind this 1980s fountain by a local artist who went by the name Ipoustéguy. It represents the sun. The building underneath is the back of the 17th Century Hôtel de Ville.And finally on the first leg of our 24 hours in Lyon, we took an Uber back up the hill to Croix Rousse, had a nice dinner at one of the many pleasant restaurants with outdoor seating, and had a final look at the lovely view from the end of our street before heading to bed.
The Early Bird Gets The Worm
There are many benefits to travelling with people who have the same travelling style as you. Are you primarily culture vultures or foodies? Do you prefer to see the nightlife or start the day bright and early? My friend and I thankfully agreed on being in the latter camp. This had the added benefit of getting us out before the heat of the day. We headed back towards that lookout we saw last night to start our descent from Croix Rousse. You’ll see a lot of references to pentes in Lyon. This word translates as ‘slopes’, and the ubiquity of the pentes shows just how hilly the city is. There are stairs and steep climbs everywhere, and even a funicular up to another hill, Fourvière. The great defensive position of being able to see approaching enemies and control two rivers is of course why we even have a city to visit in the first place.My friend and I planned to freestyle again on the continuation of our 24 hours in Lyon, but there was one place we headed to with purpose. We had seen an amphitheatre between our accommodation and the old town, and wanted to make sure we visited it. In the end ‘visited’ was a strong word: when Google Maps said it was 24 hours it meant you can look through the fence 24 hours a day… In any case, this is the Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules (Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls). Lyon has been inhabited since prehistoric times, but during the Roman period it was the important city of Lugdunum, officially founded in 43 BC. In the Roman period, the confluence of the two rivers was here at the base of the Croix Rousse hill. Commemorative stones tell us this amphitheatre was dedicated to the cult of Rome and Augustus celebrated by a gathering of 60 Gallic tribes in 19 AD.Across the street, this sad monument is about all that remains of a 19th Century Jardin des Plantes (botanic garden).
Into The Central City
We now continue down yet more steps and finally reach the bottom, finding this handsome guy. Lyon is full of monuments: every generation’s moments of commemoration and grandeur. This lion guards a rather insalubrious public toilet behind.And here we have a monument commemorating one Sergent (Sergeant) Blandan’s heroic resistance on an Algerian battlefield during France’s conquest of that country. Blandan also has a big new park in his name in Lyon: an interesting choice in this postcolonial period.Our wanderings next took us to the Fresque des Lyonnais. This mural depicts famous residents of the city including Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the Lumière brothers, and a lot of people I might have heard of if I were French. For me, the biggest mystery was why this building has no windows on one side.A little detour gives us a close up view of the Saône this time as well as this church dedicated to Saint Vincent.And then we found this dramatic fountain in the Place des Terreaux. There’s actually an interesting story behind it. It is an allegory of the four tributaries of the Garonne river by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi. The woman drives a quadriga or racing chariot. How did it end up as an allegory of the Saône instead of the Garonne? Well, it became too expensive for the city of Bordeaux, and was purchased by the mayor of Lyon where it was inaugurated in 1891.After spotting the back of the Musée des Beaux-Arts (about as close as we got to a museum) we sat down for a spot of breakfast.
On The Hunt For The Cathedral
From the top of the hill we had spotted the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, and had a mind to head for it. It was quite a journey finding it, though. This isn’t it, this is l’Église Saint-Nizier, a church dedicated to Saint Nicetius, Archibishop of Lugdunum in the 6th Century. In the top image you can just make out the mismatched spires: the church was started in the 14th Century and completed in the 19th.Inside it is very atmospheric. The top image shows personal dedications to Saint Nicetius, while the middle one shows one of a contemporary series of stations of the cross, by artist Bruno Desroches.My appreciation for architectural details during my 24 hours in Lyon ranged from small details to imposing edifices (like the Palais de la Bourse). We were actually going the wrong way to find the cathedral at this point, so these are bonus sights. Another bonus sight was the Chapelle de la Trinité. It seems rather simple today, but dates to 1622 and was once named “la Perle Baroque” (the Baroque pearl). I liked the contemporary stained glass (anyone else think Jesus looks like Rip Torn?).Now we’re getting so lost we’ve crossed the Rhône and are heading into the Part-Dieu district. This is where Lyon’s main train station is located.Briefly back across the Rhône to the section between the two rivers. This is the Place de la Republique, Place des Jacobins whose fountain depicts four artists, and Lyon’s theatre at the bottom. And finally we cross the Saône and get more or less back on track. The many-columned building is the Palais de Justice. The sculpture is called Le poids de soi (The Weight of Oneself). It’s very much in the classical style but is contemporary, by artistic duo Elmgreen & Dragset.
Finally, The Cathedral! And Lyon’s Old Town
We did it! Finally, our wandering has brought us to the cathedral we saw first thing this morning. The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptiste was started in 1180 on the ruins of a 6th Century church, and completed in 1476. Before going inside, we’ll stop off in the archeological garden. Here you can see the remains of that earlier church. And in the top image Fourvière is in the backround: the funicular is somewhere around here.Inside the church you can find a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles. The impressive astronomical clock dates to the 14th Century. As such, the sun revolves around the Earth.We contemplated going into the Cinema Museum in the terracotta-coloured building, but didn’t in the end. These open staircases and walkways are typical features of Lyon’s Old Town.And here is the Old Town. It’s very charming: lots of small restaurants, side streets, second hand bookshops. All things the Salterton Arts Review loves.You’ll see a lot of these little guys around Lyon. It’s a type of theatre similar to Punch and Judy, but known locally as guignol. It was invented by itinerant dentist Laurent Mourguet to distract patients, but it was so popular he was able to pack in his day job.You’ll also see a lot of these. Lyon’s traditional restaurant, the bouchon, serves a range of local dishes. They’re mostly meat-based, and sort of like a nose-to-tail concept. Expect lots of offal, not great for vegetarians but worth trying for other visitors. They evolved from small inns serving silk workers.A third unique feature of Lyon are its traboules. From the Latin trabulare (to cross), these are hidden covered walkways connecting buildings in Lyon. A few are open to visitors, which must be a pain for anyone living or working there. Always take a peek through any open doors as you walk through the Old Town.Hungry from all that walking, we sat down to lunch at Palm. Not a bouchon, but really delicious and highly recommended.
Bonus Time: A Boat Tour
The astute amongst you will have noticed that I’ve now had lunch in Lyon for the second time, so technically I had a little more than 24 hours in Lyon. We decided to use this bonus time for a river tour.Les Bateaux Lyonnais have various itineraries, as well as things like dinner cruises. The one which worked for our schedule was a loop going up into Central Lyon a bit, back down to the confluence of the rivers, and then returning to the starting point. Here you can see some of the churches we spied earlier in the day, including Saint-Nizier with its mismatched towers.Top image: the site of the first veterinary school in the world, founded in 1761. Bottom image: partially obscured by lens flare, but you can just about make out a statue of l’Homme de la Roche (the Man in the Rock) or le bon allemand (the good German), Jean Kleberger. His charity supporting poor victims of a 16th Century plague outbreak is still remembered today.Back past some now familiar sights…… and then further on to see some new ones, including defensive walls, some nice looking homes and a few houseboats……before we arrive at the confluence of the two rivers. Humans have moved this point a couple of times, most recently to create more usable space in the peninsula district we’re about to see.There’s a lot of heritage around here, including the Musée des Confluences in the top image. The statement architecture reminded me of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Bilbao, but this is the work of Austrian firm Coop Himmelb. It’s said to represent a cloud. The bottom image is of a former sugar warehouse, now a cultural space.There’s also a lot of contemporary architecture, both commercial and residential. These two examples are by Jakob and MacFarlane. They’re about as divisive as you would expect for something so bold.Contemporary buildings behind us, we float back towards the Old Town past houseboats, under bridges and past synagogues.
Farewell To My 24 Hours In Lyon
Almost time now to head back to the airport, but we still have a few moments for a final wander. My time in Lyon has been charming, a good reminder that you don’t have to overdo it in order to soak up a place’s atmosphere and history.In a little over a day, we have explored green spaces, city streets, churches, and seen Lyon from the river. Perhaps uniquely for the Salterton Arts Review, I didn’t visit a single museum. Given how overboard I went in Dresden, who knew this was possible?! A timely reminder that the world isn’t a checklist, and that it’s ok sometimes not to plan and just to go with the flow. As a culture lover, sometimes I forget that there’s plenty of culture outside the sanctioned institutions and experiences I’ve researched in advance.And so I bid a fond farewell to Lyon after a final refreshment stop on a cafe terrace. I hope you’ve enjoyed coming along with me for (just over) 24 hours in Lyon as much as I enjoyed having you along for the ride.
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